A trip along the northern coastline of Olympic National Park is a dream for many backpackers. For Monica, David, and I, this adventure from Shi-Shi Beach to Cape Alava offered a blend of stunning scenery, challenges, and unforgettable memories. From tackling tides and navigating rocky stretches to enjoying wildlife up close, this 4-day trek along the park’s wild coast was one we’ll remember for years.
Our journey began at the Shi-Shi Beach trailhead, where we were buzzing with excitement, as we adjusted our packs and made last-minute checks of our gear. After getting dropped off by the local shuttle service, we set off through a coastal rainforest full of banana slugs, which led towards Shi-Shi Beach. As we emerged from the forest, we were able to see Shi-Shi Beach sprawling before us, waves crashing and fog hovering over the sand.
The highlight of the day came as we approached Point of Arches, where sea stacks and arches rose dramatically out of the ocean. After setting up camp for the night, we explored nearby tidal pools, marveling at starfish and sea anemones. Our camp was close enough to hear the waves but far enough to avoid the tide, settling in for dinner as the sun set in a dazzling array of colors. As we were wrapping up our first night in high spirits, we knew we were exactly where we were meant to be.
Day 2: Point of Arches to Seafield Creek Camp
Day 2 would be an early day for us so we could get moving to catch the low tide. The route to Seafield Creek Camp would take us across a mix of sandy stretches, rocky headlands, and tide-dependent passages, so timing was crucial. Fueled by some hot coffee and a quick breakfast, we packed up and set off along the beach.
The coastal scenery was breathtaking as we made our way south, but it wasn’t without challenges. Boulder-strewn sections required careful balancing and teamwork. There was an undeniable thrill in navigating these stretches, knowing the tide would eventually reclaim them later in the day.
Along the way, we spotted many seagulls and a couple sea otters enjoying the tides. We paused often to take in the serene coves and rock formations, fully immersed in the wilderness around us.
By late afternoon, we arrived at Seafield Creek Camp, where we set up our tents on a bluff above Seafield Creek. The night was dark yet peaceful, filled with laughter, whiskey, and reflections on the day’s journey we wound down for the night.
Day 3: Seafield Creek Camp to Cape Alava
On our third day, Fog was clinging to the coast, adding a touch of mystique to our journey. The day’s goal was to reach Cape Alava, the westernmost point in the contiguous United States. After a quick breakfast, we set off, facing yet another tide-dependent day along the rugged coastline.
We tackled various terrains that morning, from smooth sand to slippery, seaweed-covered rocks. The highlight of the day though was crossing the Ozette River at low tide. This crossing was only a foot deep when we crossed, but if crossed at high tide it can go over your waist.
Early in the day we arrived at Cape Alava, where we were greeted by expansive views of the beach stretching out to Ozette Island. We found a campsite near the beach and were greeted by the locals, a family of deer that enjoyed the high grass at camp. As we settled in for the evening, we couldn’t help but feel accomplished. Cape Alava’s remote beauty, with its ancient Makah Tribe history and breathtaking views, left us with a deep sense of reverence and connection to the land.
Day 4: Cape Alava to Ozette Trailhead
As we set off for our final day, it was bittersweet. The short hike from Cape Alava back to the Ozette Trailhead we would leave the beach behind, entering the coastal rainforest, where towering trees and dense vegetation created a canopy overhead. When we finally reached the Ozette Trailhead, we paused for a group photo, knowing our backpacking trip was over. We had spent four days in the heart of the Pacific Northwest wilderness, relying on each other and soaking in a world untouched by the everyday bustle.
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