Lessons from the John Muir Trail by Lauren Ruhe

The John Muir Trail taught me many lessons, one of the biggest being that you can prepare as much as possible, but sometimes life throws you unexpected challenges, and you have to adapt. What initially feels like a catastrophe, can sometimes turn into a blessing in disguise.

My interest in hiking the 211-mile John Muir Trail was sparked by my good friend Lindsay. During the summer of 2023, she shared her dream of this bucket-list trip, describing all the incredible things she’d heard about the JMT. I was immediately on board!

Getting a permit for the trail is notoriously difficult. I’d had countless conversations with fellow hikers who’d “been trying to score a permit for years.” So, you can imagine my shock when, after putting my name into the JMT lottery, I received a “Congratulations” email in my inbox the following week on just my second attempt.
We initially planned to hike 15 to 18 miles per day—mileage that’s manageable for us in the Pacific Northwest. What we didn’t account for was how the altitude (ranging from 8,000 to 14,505 feet) and carrying a week’s worth of food between resupply points would impact us.

Sunrise over Purple Lake.

For our three-week trek, we were lucky with nearly perfect conditions. We’d just missed mosquito season, encountered only one afternoon of thunderstorms, and enjoyed nighttime temperatures averaging in the mid-to-low 40s. The days were sunny and warm, with clear skies nearly every day.

Before the trip, we excitedly talked about all the sights we’d see, the interesting hikers we’d meet, the lakes we’d swim in, and my plan to bring an extra eight pounds of camera and video equipment to capture it all (my luxury item). But the reality of the first few days was sleepless nights and additional symptoms, which I later learned were due to hyponatremia.

About a week into the hike, the severity of my hyponatremia forced us to make a difficult call to alter our plans. It also led us to reflect on how little we’d actually done of what we’d initially looked forward to most on this trip. We hadn’t swam in a single lake, I’d barely taken any photos or video, and we’d hardly paused to chat with other hikers. Instead, our focus had become covering as many miles as possible each day.

Six Moon Designs Skyscape Trekker tent at sunset.

View overlooking Emerald Lake.

After deciding to slow down our pace, we were finally able to soak in all that the JMT had to offer. One of the reasons I’d brought my camera along was to capture time-lapse footage of the Milky Way. When we arrived at Thousand Island Lake and set up camp, I knew it was the perfect spot to set up my camera for the night. Unfortunately, it didn’t get truly dark until around 11 p.m., so I set an alarm to start the timelapse, and by 4 a.m. I woke up again to check the footage. I captured a handful of these time lapses at various campsites during our trek. Not every attempt turned out as hoped—sometimes clouds would roll in, or there’d be too much light pollution—but the photo I captured at Thousand Island Lake is one of my favorites from the trip.

Banner Peak lit up by the rising moon.

One of our favorite spots on the trail was a campsite within Evolution Basin. Although we arrived by mid-afternoon that day, we decided to stop early and take in the beauty around us. This area is filled with deep blue lakes framed by towering granite walls, so surreal it felt like stepping into another world. We set up camp with a stunning view of Evolution Lake, and a nearby trail led to a vantage point overlooking the entire Evolution Valley below. It turned out to be the perfect place to watch the sunset that night and sunrise the following morning.
As the sun set, we were greeted by golden trout leaping from Evolution Lake and bats skimming low, hunting for bugs. The alpenglow in this area was some of the most breathtaking we’d seen, with the surrounding granite lighting up in vibrant pink just as the sun dipped below the horizon.

My trusty Six Moon Designs Skyscape Trekker tent at Evolution Lake.

The iconic Muir Hut, a granite shelter sitting at 12,000 feet, just above Evolution Valley.

Because we slowed our pace, we didn’t have the opportunity to summit Mt. Whitney and instead took the Bishop Pass route off the JMT. Initially, we were disappointed about not reaching Whitney, but Bishop Pass ended up being a highlight of the trip. It was breathtakingly scenic, with stunning lakes and expansive views that made for a beautiful ending to our journey.

Lindsay descending Seldon Pass, wearing a Six Moon Designs Swift V Backpack.

Reflecting on our trek along the John Muir Trail, I’m reminded that sometimes, the most memorable adventures aren’t defined by the miles logged or the peaks summited. Instead, they’re found in the unexpected moments, the lessons learned, and the beauty of slowing down to appreciate where you are. Although we didn’t follow our initial plan to the letter, we left with so much more: new perspectives, breathtaking memories, and the satisfaction of embracing the journey as it unfolded. The JMT challenged us, surprised us, and ultimately gave us an experience we’ll carry long after the trail dust has settled.